Triporteurs in India

India manufactures and uses more triporteurs than anywhere else in the World. In its heirarchy of traffic, until recently three-wheeled commercial vehicles outnumbered 4-wheelers. No 3-wheelers are used for pleasure – all triporteurs are used commercially.

This includes the ‘tempo’ and ‘bajaj’ (generic terms for any 3-wheel transporter), the ‘auto’ (or autorickshaw taxi triporteur), and a variety of pedal-assisted triporteurs, cycle-rickshaws and handcarts.

Tempo Taxi at Sheesh Mahal, February, 1994.

Cars and Curry

I’ve had a lifelong interest in old vehicles – particularly commercials.

I lived in Asia for 10 years, and I decided to be a part-time professional photographer.

During breaks from work I travelled extensively around India eating good vegetarian curry and photographing traffic..

Photographing Traffic

While normal tourists visit the Taj Mahal when in India, I’m to be found photographing traffic.

January 2007

Harley Davidson Taxi

I don’t know if they’re still there, but when I used to visit Delhi in the 1990’s I used to visit the Harley Davidson taxi stand at Connaught place. (This photo is from 1996). They plied a fixed route to the wholesale markets in Old Delhi. Their engines were replaced with Bajaj deisels many years ago, and it was a delight to chug along from what used to be ‘modern’ Delhi (ie 1950’s style) to Old Delhi, which was delighfully pre-war.

Old Delhi was the opposite of the ’supermarket’ or ‘mall’ approach to selling, ie a small amount of everything being available in one place.

India’s old style of selling came from village traditions, where different areas (usually certain castes in that area) specialized in different skills or manufacture or repair of particular goods. So in cities there would, for example, be a street full of ’shirtings, suitings and saris’ shops. Another street might house all the metal locker and luggage shops. This would be fine if you only wanted to buy one sort of thing. If you wanted to buy a lot it took several journeys.

The pedal-triporteur Stand

Commercial delivery has a heirarchy that reflects the commercial vehicles used. From truck to 4-wheel Tempo Matador van, to 3-wheeler tempo or bajaj (ie Piaggio Ape), to carrier-tricycle for local distribution.

This is a stand in a Madras street where you can hire a triporteur and rider.

Gujurati Road Crew

Labouring jobs on the roads throughout India are done by teams of low-caste women. They are to be seen everywhere carrying woks on their heads full of gravel, or sitting by the roadside breaking up rocks with hammers.

Throughout Asia, women are considered 2nd class citizens. When I lived in Nepal, I read a local magazine that addressed such issues (rare), and one sentence from it has always stuck in my mind:

“Why is a girl-child always given a broom and not a pen?”

February, 1997

Fast Food

This fast-food delivery is just down the road from Mysore zoo.

Photo January, 2007

Village Scene

In a Tamil Nadu village

Bhuj Bus Stand

I visited India in February/ March 1997 specifically to travel around rural Gujurat and photograph tribespeople and traffic. Bhuj was my favourite town (it was destroyed several years later by an earthquake).

The tribespeople of Gujurat wear fabulous clothes and the women have very interesting tattoos. But it can be embarrassing photographing people.

So I spent a long time at places such as Bhuj bus stand, wearing a shalwar kameez (Indian trouser suit) to blend in more. As it was hot, everyone sat in the shade of the bus station waiting for buses back to their villages.

But when their bus came in, they came out into the sun – and then I could whip my camera from my shoulder-bag and snap them.

Tibet Free Yamaha

Dharamsala, April 2001

Train crossing in rural Gujurat

I love Gujurat. This is where you get the best vegetarian curries in India. Thalis are not only delicious but never-ending too: as you finish any of the dishes in the thali, a fleet of waiters arrive with pots to re-fill your plate. I had to walk a lot between meals to make room for the next one.

Vikram 3-Wheeler

January 2007

Bullock Cart In Rajastan

Bullock carts are a common form of transport in agricultural areas, and often in cities too. They would commonly be used to bring a farmer’s produce in to market.

In the heirarchy of bullock carts, a ‘Brahmin Bull’ such as this one would be the most favoured option.

I snapped this in 1997 during an overnight bus trip between Pushkar, Rajastan and Bhuj, Gujurat.

2-Weeled Transporter

Of course, you don’t need three or four wheels to transport goods in India. Asia provides endless examples of how much you can get onto one two-wheeler.

Mahabalipuram

On the road to Mahabalipuram, March, 1994. I leaned out of an autorickshaw door to snap this photo.

We’d just completed a 48 hour train journey down the east coast from Orissa to Madras, and my girlfriend and I had balked at the price of taxis for the 1 hour drive to Mahabalipuram. So we took an auto instead. They’re a bit bumpy at speed for inter-city travel, but when you’re budget travelling you tend to haggle over the few pence you wouldn’t think twice about when you’re back home.

M/cycle Triporteur at Mandvi, Gujurat

Mandvi has a wonderful variety of motorcycle 3-wheeler taxis and commercials.

February, 1997

Going Bananas

January, 2007

Tempos in Rajastan

Being larger than autorickshaws and more robustly built, Tempo taxis are generally used for inter-city journeys. They are only found in certain areas of India.

Like all other public transport in India, a full vehicle does not stop more passengers getting on!

Ahmedabad Camel

This camel cart stopped just as I was about to phtograph the truck over the road and the camel took an unhealthy interest in my camera. I re-focussed fast and snapped him instantly before jumping out of his way.

On the Road in India

I enjoy the juxtapostion of old and new (probably the result of driving a vintage car for many years). India epitomizes this more than most places.

IF YOU WISH TO SEE MORE ODD PHOTOS OF TRAFFIC IN INDIA, PLEASE CLICK THE LINK BELOW TO THE NEXT PAGE…